Filigree is a goldsmithing technique that dates back thousands of years and is renowned for its lightness and attention to detail.
In this process, wafer-thin gold or silver wires are bent into intricate patterns and decoratively attached to pieces of jewelry.
The production of filigree wire requires the utmost precision. First, the metal is drawn into a fine wire until it reaches the desired thickness. For particularly fine work, the wire can be reduced to a diameter of a few tenths of a millimeter. The wire is often twisted and rolled to create additional details.
The wire is then bent into delicate ornaments such as spirals, tendrils, or geometric shapes using pliers. These delicate patterns are attached to a contour frame or metal surface and soldered in place.
Today, this technique stands for high craftsmanship and gives jewelry a special, delicate elegance.
Enamelwork is a very old special technique used in goldsmithing. It makes it possible to create colorful decorations on jewelry and art objects, giving them a special luminosity.
During production, the enamel powder, consisting of ground glass and metal oxides, is carefully applied to the desired surface. The workpiece is then heated in a kiln to around 800°C until the enamel melts and bonds permanently with the metal. The firing process in particular requires a great deal of experience, as too high a temperature or too long a firing time can ruin the work.
To achieve a beautiful, smooth, and shiny surface, the piece of jewelry is ground and polished in a complex process.
There are various techniques. These include, for example, “cloisonné” (cell enamel), in which fine metal bars delimit patterns, and “champlevé” (pit enamel), in which depressions in the metal are filled with enamel.
Granulation is a fascinating goldsmithing technique that has been used since the 3rd millennium BC. It involves applying tiny beads, known as granules, to a surface to create filigree patterns.
To make the beads, fine wire is cut into small pieces. These are then melted by heating them in a flame or a special furnace, whereby the surface tension of the metal causes perfect little beads to form.
After production, the granules are precisely arranged on the surface of the jewelry and welded to it using reaction soldering, so that no visible solder joints are created.
This technique was perfected by the Etruscans, who used such fine granules that it was also called dust granulate. The exciting thing about this technique is that the knowledge of how to apply the granules was lost for a time and had to be rediscovered.
Granulated jewelry is particularly impressive due to its detailed, decorative character and enormous craftsmanship.